I went to Antarctica without – and it changed the way I travel

Written by: Nanci Ott

When I went to Antarctica without my husband, I thought the trip would be about penguins, whales, icebergs, and finally standing on my seventh continent.

I was wrong.

What I remember most is the people.

My husband and I usually travel together, but when the opportunity came up for me to take a 23-day Antarctica expedition cruise, he couldn’t take that much time off work. I could either wait for another time or go alone.

So I went.

The trip began in Buenos Aires, where one evening I noticed a woman in front of me with beautiful silver hair woven with tiny iridescent strands. I finally asked how she did it.

That simple question led to dinner with two women named Martha and Ginger.

I had no idea they were about to become such an important part of my Antarctica experience.

By the time we reached Ushuaia, I was excited, but I was also nervous about crossing the Drake Passage. Then we found out that some of the ship’s additional stabilizers were not working.

We were given a choice: get off the ship and fly back to Buenos Aires, or stay onboard and cross the Drake.

I called my husband.

I had come this far. Was I really going to turn around now?

I stayed.

That is one reason I understand travelers who ask whether they should sail the Drake Passage or choose an Antarctica fly-cruise option instead. It is a very real concern, especially if you are nervous about rough seas.

Once onboard, though, something unexpected happened.

I stopped feeling like I was traveling alone.

At dinner, I met Walter, a fascinating gentleman from Africa. I later discovered he was a billionaire, but what I remember most are his stories and the conversations we had.

And then there were Martha and Ginger.

They kept making me do things I probably would not have done on my own.

Whenever we went ashore in Antarctica, I was perfectly happy standing near the penguins.

They were not.

“Come on, Nanci. We’re going up there.”

I would look at the hill and then look back at the penguins.

Why leave perfectly good penguins?

But I followed them anyway.

And almost every time, something extraordinary was waiting on the other side: whales, seals, enormous ice formations, or completely different views of the Antarctic landscape.

That is one of the things I love most about an Antarctica expedition cruise. You are not simply watching Antarctica from a ship. You are getting into Zodiacs, going ashore, walking, exploring, and experiencing it.

Eye-level view of a luxury expedition ship docked near an iceberg

One of my favorite memories happened on Christmas Day when we walked out onto a field of ice.

Penguins started coming out of the water and walking toward us.

We were fascinated by them, and they seemed just as curious about us.

For a while, it felt as though we were the attraction.

Close-up view of a gourmet meal served on a polar expedition ship

By the end of the trip, Martha, Ginger and I had become so comfortable together that we planned one final breakfast in their cabin.

I walked down in my pajamas early that morning, and one of the crew members asked where I was going.

Without thinking, I said, “I’m going to play with the girls.”

When I told Martha and Ginger what I had said, they explained exactly what the crew member had probably been thinking.

The three of us sat there laughing so hard over breakfast that I could barely breathe.

And I remember thinking:

I almost missed all of this because my husband couldn’t come.

Even the Drake Passage felt different on the way home.

We crossed it over New Year’s Eve and ended up dancing as the ship rolled from side to side.

At the beginning of the trip, I had been nervous about the Drake.

At the end, I was dancing across it.

That pretty much sums up what Antarctica did to me.

I went expecting penguins, whales, icebergs, and adventure.

I came home remembering Martha, Ginger, Walter, and all the moments I never could have planned.

That is why Antarctica still means so much to me.

If you are thinking about your own trip, you can explore my Antarctica travel information, compare Antarctica expedition cruise lines, or see current Antarctica cruise dates and pricing.

And if you are just getting started:

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Because sometimes the best part of an Antarctica adventure is the part you never saw coming.

The perfect blend of comfort and adventure on a luxury polar expedition ship.

Feel free to reach out if you want tips on packing, choosing the right expedition, or anything else to make your trip perfect. I’m here to help you turn your dream into reality.